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Diving in Mostar and Bosnian Spinach Pie

Storm clouds loomed threateningly above Mostar, Bosnia and winds whipped flags and awnings as we walked cobbled streets towards Stari Most, an ancient bridge destroyed during the Bosnian conflict in the 90’s and rebuilt.

Before it was sent crashing into the Neretva River, Stari Most had stood for 427 years. Nearly from the beginning, the bridge was irresistible to divers who wanted to show their bravery by plummeting into the frigid river below.  The first recorded jump was in 1664, and in 1968 a formal diving competition was formed and held every summer until war made it impossible. Diving has resumed at Stari Most, and I hope it will continue for another 427 years.

As we approached Stari Most, we passed this intriguing gentleman who hollered warnings about the end of the world as he strode through Old Town Mostar. He made quite the dramatic figure all in white, his gray hair flying in the wind as he shouted.

The stones were slick under my sandals and I held on tight to the railing as we walked up the steep incline to the other side.

I loved looking at the city from Stari Most. The rumble of thunder, black clouds and strange sunlight made for a gripping vista.

We lingered awhile until suddenly the sunlight disappeared, the heavens opened and raindrops the size of large grapes pelted us with fury. Dry streets were rivers in minutes and we laughed in disbelief as water streamed off us, utterly drenching hair and clothes before we could find shelter. We splashed our way to the van, not even attempting to avoid puddles, and arrived soaked, dripping and laughing like mad.

It would’ve been the perfect night for Bosnian Spinach Pie. Similar to Greek Spanikopita, this phyllo pie features olive oil instead of butter, and a mixture of cheddar and feta cheeses. It also has a topping of sour cream and milk that keeps the pastry soft instead of brittle. It’s my new favorite thing.


This is my contribution to Wanderfood Wednesday hosted by the lovely Beth.

Bosnian Spinach Pie


1 package thawed phyllo pastry sheet
2 bags washed fresh spinach
2 medium eggs
1/3 cup sour cream
1 cup feta cheese, crumbled
1 cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese
olive oil
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup sour cream


  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F
  2. Wash and drain spinach. Chop and place in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and toss until incorporated.
  3. Let spinach rest for 10-20 minutes.
  4. Squeeze excess water from spinach and transfer to glass bowl.
  5. Add eggs, sourcream, feta and cheddar. Mix well. Set aside.
  6. Grease 9″ by 13″ pan with olive oil. Lay one sheet in bottom (won’t fit exactly, but just press one layer) brush
  7. with olive oil. Fold over excess dough and brush with olive oil. Repeat with 3-4 sheets.
  8. Add third of filling and spread over oiled phyllo.
  9. Top with sheet of phyllo and brush with olive oil. Repeat with three sheets.
  10. Add next third of filling, three more sheets of phyllo, remainder of filling, and top with final 2-3 layers of phyllo,
  11. each layer brushed with olive oil.
  12. Place in oven and bake 45 minutes.
  13. Combine milk and sour cream. When timer goes off, pour over pie and bake another 15 minutes.
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Travel to Bosnia - […] of condiments depending on the specific Balkan region you’re in. Other favorites include Bosnian spinach pie, ajvar (a luscious spread made of roasted red bell peppers and spices), and Bosanska Kafa, Bosnian […]

RamblingTart - Mmm, I love spinach pie in any form, Beth! Your Mum’s sounds delish too. 🙂

RamblingTart - Thank you, Liz! ME TOO!! I’m aching to travel again. 🙂

Wanderluster - My mom used to make spinach pie but it was much more “pie” than “spanikopita”. I do love phyllo dough, however, and this looks like a doable recipe. Thanks for sharing!

Liz - Love the travel photos! These make me want to hop on a plane.

RamblingTart - I love it too, Zizi. 🙂 Just love it!!

Zita - Beautiful place, love the photos!

RamblingTart - Thank you, Stephanie! You should hop on that plane!! 🙂

RamblingTart - I’ll go with you, Nicole!! I keep dreaming of going back. 🙂

RamblingTart - You are so right, Duchess! I could’ve happily wandered there for days. 🙂

RamblingTart - My absolutely pleasure, Bellini! I’m so glad you like it. 🙂

RamblingTart - I really love those stones too, Barbara! 🙂 Nope the man didn’t get angry because I was SNEAKY! 🙂 I had my camera down by my hip pointed towards him and snapped it while I was looking up at the sky. Sneaky, I tell you! 🙂

Stephanie (Food Freeway) - Gorgeous photos (I have a sudden urge to hop on a plane and go to Bosnia!!), and that pie looks amazing. Yum!

Nicole - I want to go to Bosnia! And eat that spinach pie. Gorgeous photos!

RamblingTart - I’m so glad, Lorraine. 🙂 I just held my camera in my hand and snapped unobtrusively to capture him. 😉

RamblingTart - Thank you, Lazaro. 🙂 I enjoy it so much.

Duchess - That town is so wonderous and romantic. And the spinach pie? wow.

bellini valli - Thanks for sharing your pictoral journey with us. I know I would love the pie since it is sumilar to our diehard favourite spanakopita.

Barbara - Marvelous photos! And those stones are truly lovely and look as though they have been there forever.
Did the old man get angry when you took that picture?

Olive oil is a great addition and I love the sour cream on top… can’t wait to try this as spanikopita is one of my favorites.

Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella - I love going along with you on your travels Krista! And that man does sound rather dramatic! I’m often scared to photograph people yelling in case they turn on me-so well done capturing him! 🙂

Lazaro - Magnificent photo journey. You are such a fantastic photographer.

Love the spinach pie. Look flaky and perfectly cooked. Awesome post!

Be well

RamblingTart - That’s great, Becky!! I hope you like it. 🙂 You are so welcome! It makes me happy that you enjoy them. 🙂

Becky - I’m totally making that pie for lunch tomorrow! It looks heavenly! Thanks for all your neat posts – recipes and travel – the perfect combination!!

RamblingTart - Ohh, me too, Elra! 🙂


Delightful spinach pie worth trying. Love anything that layer in phillo dough 🙂

RamblingTart - Thank you very much, Jen! 🙂 I’m eating it for lunch today and it’s awfully good. 🙂

Jen Cheung - lovely photos u have here! the spinache pie is making my mouth watery! it must be delicioussss!


RamblingTart - Thank you, Rosa! I would love to go back and explore more.

RamblingTart - I love it too, Tangerine. 🙂 Such a beautiful place. You are so welcome! I hope you enjoy the pie. 🙂

Rosa - That is a beautiful place that I would love to visit! So sad that bridge had gor destroyed during the war… Your shots are very atmospheric and splendid!

And that pie is so tenpting! I love phyllo pies with spinach and feta!



Tangerine Fairy - What a gorgeous town..I’ve made spinach pie before, but never w/ eggs…will try it! thanks for all your inspirations 🙂

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