A Black Lava Beach On Nguna Island, Vanuatu

A Black Lava Beach On Nguna Island, Vanuatu

While walking along a dirt track skirting the island of Nguna in Vanuatu, I spied a tiny trail leading down to a glimmer of blue.

I can never resist a mystery trail so I clambered down the little hill, stepping carefully over a tangle of vines until I found a gap in the trees and emerged onto this hidden beach.

black lava beach

After the relative cool of the bush, the searing heat hit me like a blast from a furnace as I stepped out onto the sand. But the sight of stark black lava rocks from a long dormant volcano was worth the threat of sunburn and heat stroke.

volcanic beach Vanuatu

I investigated tidal pools and scrambled atop rocks and sandy cliffs for great views of the Coral Sea and nearby islands.

black lava beach Vanuatu

Peering through another gap in the bush I saw sheets of rain falling across the bay. I was cutting it close with my ambling, but some things are worth risking a drenching.

view of Efate

I loved watching these island children laughing uproariously as they chased each other hand-over-hand around the boat. They caught me smiling at them and waved wildly, calling out hellos at the top of their lungs.

island children swimming

A bit further down the track I came upon these dapper fellows lined up on a fallen log in their Sunday best. I couldn’t resist having a chat with them and had to laugh as they answered each of my questions in loud unison. When asked if I could take their picture they squished closer on the log and assumed their most cool poses, hollering good-bye as I headed back to town.

boys from Vanuatu

I glanced out to sea in time to see rain plummeting into the surf only a few yards from shore. I dashed back to my bungalow as the first drops began to fall.

storm on the Coral Sea

I was in for a doozy of a boat ride across the stormy Coral Sea.

What’s the wildest storm you’ve ever been in?

Sunday Morning Walk On A Tropical Island, Part Two

Sunday Morning Walk On A Tropical Island, Part Two

Although I love boats, trains, and even bicycles, my favorite way to explore a new place is on foot. In a place as sweltering hot and humid as Vanuatu, a slow stroll along the coast road opened my eyes to things I definitely would’ve missed if I were whizzing past.

Like these children squealing and laughing as they leaped in the cooling waves of the Coral Sea.

beach on Nguna island

And this oh-so-homey line of laundry flapping gently in the salty breezes.

laundry hanging by the ocean

Emerging from the heavenly shade of the bush, I came upon this pretty little village set at the foot of towering hills and overlooking the tree-lined beach.

mountains in Vanuatu

The brightly colored homes cheered me no end, and if it weren’t so blooming hot I could picture myself happily seated on one of those benches, visiting with a dear friend or just watching the world go by.

island home in Vanuatu

I wandered down to the beach and had a lovely visit with a sweet grandma who was babysitting various village children under the shade of the trees. We talked about goats and chickens and gardens and grandchildren and how wonderful the ocean water feels on hot days. 🙂 They told me their names and the name of their village and laughed heartily at my attempts at pronunciation. A linguist I am not! 🙂

 

white sand beach

I waved good-bye and continued on my way, casting a wary eye up at the sky as I hustled along the path, hoping to outrun the storm.

Alas, I kept getting distracted by cute little kids and tidy gardens and chickens scratching in the underbrush.

house in the tropics

I felt like I’d wandered into a Dr. Seuss book as I ambled down this tree-lined lane, marveling at the incredible root system.

tropical trees

And I loved these rustic stone steps leading into a sunny yard dotted with various palms.

house in the jungle

What is your favorite mode of transportation when exploring a new place?

Sunday Morning Walk On A Tropical Island, Part One

Sunday Morning Walk On A Tropical Island, Part One

After a hearty and scrumptious homemade breakfast on the beach outside my bungalow, I grabbed sunglasses and camera and headed out for a trek along the main road of Nguna Island, Vanuatu.

Before I’d even gone a few steps I caught up with a lovely island woman who beamed at me and fell into step, telling me about her husband and children and what it’s like to live on this beautiful tropical island in the Coral Sea.

Pele Vanuatu

We parted at a crossroads where she joined a stream of colorfully clad folks climbing a narrow path up to the village church. We waved good-bye and I continued on my way, the sound of the church choir providing a magical soundtrack to my walk through the village.

I passed a local school, loving the mural that proclaimed: “White, Black, We Are All The Same.”

Nguna school

I wandered down the road and came across five brothers lolling about on wooden benches at the base of a massive tree. They were hilarious little chaps, answering my questions very politely before giggling like mad and hiding their heads under their shirts.

As I waved good-bye I looked back over my shoulder and there they were, peeking at me from around the tree and covering their mouths to suppress more laughter.

Vanuatan children

Although the sun was blazing hot above Nguna, a quick glance out to sea showed storm clouds gathering and dumping sheets of rain on nearby islands. I picked up my pace a bit, determined to see as much as possible before the storm arrived.

Nguna Island beach

I approached three ladies bustling to church as fast as they could in the sweltering heat. But even running late they greeted me with smiles and stopped to chat. Turns out two of them were Aussies, a volunteer and her mother, heading to morning worship with their adopted island mama.

Vanuatan women

Little trails branched off from the main road, leading to exquisite views of roiling surf and distant islands. They also led to glorious shade and deliciously cool breezes off the water. Such things are pure bliss on a sweltering morning.

Emao Island Vanuatu

I loved strolling through one village after another, thoroughly charmed by the little touches employed to make each place unique: brightly painted gutters, shady porches facing the sea, and vivid hibiscus blossoms.

Nguna house

One of my favorite moments was spotting this woman through the trees. She looked so beautiful and powerful standing there on the rocks, her orange dress billowing in the wind as she searched the horizon looking for I know not what.

woman looking out to sea

When I passed this spot on my way home, she called out greetings to me from a shady patch of sand where she was having a picnic with her husband and children. I love moments like that. 🙂

Next time I’ll share what I saw just before a mother of a rain storm blew in.

Do you like walking in the rain?

A Sunset Ferry Ride from Switzerland to Italy

A Sunset Ferry Ride from Switzerland to Italy

After a delectable lunch and leisurely stroll around Locarno, Switzerland, my friends Margo, Katy, Kate, Kathy and I boarded a ferry heading to Stresa, Italy and found the best possible seats in the open air on the top deck.

sailboat on Lake Maggiore

It was the perfect vantage point for soaking up sunshine and watching the bevy of sailboats taking advantage of the Indian Summer for an October sailing.

We met some lovely fellow travelers from Canada and had a good ol’ visit as we steamed along.

Lake Maggiore ferries

Now and then we’d pull ashore to disgorge passengers, giving us glimpses of pretty little lakeside villages and tidy harbors filled with brightly colored boats.

Swiss towns on Lake Maggiore

I loved seeing folks walking along the promenade or resting their bones on wooden benches, taking in the sights and enjoying each others company.

boat rides on Lake Maggiore

As the sun sank lower in the sky, the ferry took us past the tiny Borromean Islands, their few buildings glowing in the light of the setting sun.

Borromean Islands

This ferry ride must be gorgeous any time of day, but I’m so glad we got to go at sunset. Everything seems so much more peaceful at sunset. Quiet in the soft golden light.

It didn’t take long for us to settle back in our plastic chairs, escaping into our own private thoughts as we journalled, took photos, and watched the shoreline of Switzerland become the shoreline of Italy.

Italian lake harbor at sunset

The sun slipped behind the hills and I pulled my pashmina tight around my shoulders, unwilling to leave the deck even with the chilly breezes.

Lake Maggiore at dusk

At this point my trusty little camera died and I finished the trip with my phone – islands, old buildings, train station and dear friends. The pictures are blurry and black and white but I love them just the same.

Stresa train station

How do you like to document your journeys? Do you write? Take pictures? Video? Paint or sketch?

 

A Gorgeous Train Layover in Locarno, Switzerland

A Gorgeous Train Layover in Locarno, Switzerland

After our train ride through the exquisitely beautiful Italian Alps here and here, we descended from the hills to see another glorious sight: the glistening waters of the Swiss side of Lake Maggiore.

Lake Maggiore Switzerland

Margo, Katy, Kate, Kathy and I alighted from the train and joined the hordes scurrying up to the streets of Locarno, Switzerland.

Getting our bearings we quickly found a bank machine to secure some Swiss francs for our brief sojourn (see below). I thought they were so colorful and pretty. 🙂

With the late afternoon sun hot on our shoulders, we wandered along the waterfront a bit before turning in to find something to eat in the town square of Locarno.

Locarno Switzerland

In spite of scaffolding and barriers filling the square in preparation for a film festival, it was still a pretty spot ringed with towering apartments painted in the brightest ice-creamy colors of pistachio, strawberry, and lemon.

Although our arrival was well past lunch time, we managed to find one spot open that featured outdoor tables, shade and food. It was perfect.

I had a delicious thin crust pizza topped with smoked salmon, capers and thinly sliced onions. It was scrumptious and just light enough to leave me room for that most perfect of summer desserts: gelato.

Locarno town square

As soon as lunch was over, Katy, Kate and I made a beeline for the nearest Swiss gelateria and ordered whatever flavors piqued our interest. I tried hazelnut and mango gelato and found them both most refreshing on a piping hot afternoon.

Swiss gelato

We had a pleasant wander through town, eying windows filled the latest fashions and happily indulging in people-watching as we made our way to the harbor to catch the ferry.

 

Locarno ferry landing

We boarded quickly and found seats in the open air atop the ferry. With sun in our faces and the wind in our hair we settled in for the next three-hour leg of our Lake Maggiore Express tour.

Locarno Bay Switzerland

I can’t wait to show you some of the beauties of the Swiss end of Lake Maggiore.

What is your favorite way to explore a new region?