Simple Happinesses in an Australian Autumn

Simple Happinesses in an Australian Autumn

I don’t know if I’ve ever experienced a more glorious Autumn than this year in Australia.

I wake up to cool, foggy mornings that are quickly dissipated by the rising sun, turning into breathtakingly sumptuous days of sunshine, brilliant blue sky, and a cacophony of bird song.

After a year of nearly incessant travel, I am luxuriating in quiet days in the country with time to just be.

Time for hanging laundry to dry in the sun, for walks with Luna and Fletcher through crunchy leaves, and for washing dishes as afternoon light streams through my kitchen windows.

Queensland autumn weather

I think it’s the light that gets me. It seems mellower, more golden and soft than the summer light.

It comes through different windows than during the spring and summer, and I love how it makes my kitchen glow with warmth as it shimmers off the wood walls and glints through the old glass bottles on the window sill.

The yard looks magical at sunset with the light shining through hundreds of feathers from our molting ducks, geese and chickens.

It’s inspired me to embrace Autumn in all its richness and depth of color. I even bought new nail polish in a gorgeous Aubergine as my own little salute to the changing season.

Autumn sunshine

The farmer’s markets have been overflowing with tomatoes and capsicum (bell pepper) lately, so my oven has been running overtime roasting them for soups, sandwiches, and even snacks between meals.

oven roasted tomatoes

I made a crustless quiche with them the other day, and as I set it to cool on the counter it looked so gorgeous in the afternoon light that I had to capture it.

Roasted Tomato and Pepper Quiche

Alongside these simple pleasures, I’ve been working hard on some exciting projects and I can’t wait to tell you about them. 🙂

What is projects are exciting YOU these days?

Roasted Tomato and Pepper Quiche
(makes two quiches)

Ingredients:

1 cup roasted red bell peppers (capsicum), diced
1 16 ounce container cottage cheese
8 large eggs
1 4 ounce container mild green chilies
2 cups diced ham
4 scallions, sliced
2 Tbsp powdered mustard
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 cup feta cheese, cubed or grated
24 oven roasted tomato halves

Directions:

  1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
  2. Mix all ingredients except roasted tomatoes and pour into two greased pie pans.
  3. Top with roasted tomatoes and bake for 45 minutes or until top is golden and firm.

 

Our Lord in the Attic in Amsterdam, Part Two

Our Lord in the Attic in Amsterdam, Part Two

Late afternoon sunshine streamed through the windows of Our Lord in the Attic (Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder) as I continued my exploration of this amazing hidden 17th Century Catholic Church in Amsterdam.

light through a window

Last time I shared photos from my trusty phone of the beautiful interior of this unique hidden church. (You can view them here.)

Today we will leave the lavish sanctuary and exquisite old organ and enter my favorite part of the museum: the former living quarters of priest Ludovicus Reiniers and his household staff who moved into the Velvet Burgwal (original name for this building) in 1739.

Dutch wall lamp

With nearly all furnishings and exhibits removed for an extensive renovation, this part of Our Lord in the Attic is a deeply serene and quiet escape from the hustle and bustle of the city of Amsterdam.

I love the soft winter light of Amsterdam, and it was on glorious display as it filtered through the old, glass, multi-paned windows and settled into warm puddles on the aged wooden planks of the floor.

Our Lord in the Attic confessional

In this quiet setting it was so easy to picture the maid humming to herself as she swept and dusted the staircase after dozens of parishioners clomped up and down the steps to and from the worship service.

Or perhaps the priest hunched over a desk cluttered with books, parchment and fountain pens as he prepared next week’s sermon.

I wondered what sort of furniture they had back then. Would the bed have been piled with a thick down comforter? Would the walls have been lined with bookshelves or big wooden wardrobes?

I would’ve loved a big, squishy chair pulled up to one of those splendid old windows, reading for hours in glorious solitude.

old Dutch windows

I crept precariously down a particularly narrow and twisting staircase and found the kitchen, a delightful place flooded with soft light and lined with blue and white tiles.

Isn’t it so homey? I can easily picture myself at that old wooden table, sharing a cup of tea and plate of cookies with a dear friend.

Our Lord in the Attic kitchen area

The tiles lining the walls are aged and chipped now, but I love the country scenes depicted: fishing, swinging, walking with a pet.

I wanted to tie on an apron, haul out mixing bowls and start cooking .

Our Lord in the Attic kitchen

Leaving that splendid old kitchen I entered a light-filled hallway and bid farewell to this most interesting museum. A place rich in history and personalities providing a fascinating glimpse into a bygone world.

lighted doorway

I wrapped my scarf tightly around my neck and headed back into the blustering Amsterdam weather.

bicycle on canal bridge

It was time to go home.

What do you picture yourself doing in an old house like this?

Slow-cooked Horse, Lard with Honey, and Other Delicious Things to Eat

Slow-cooked Horse, Lard with Honey, and Other Delicious Things to Eat

Hi lovelies! It’s a gorgeously sunny but blustery day and I’m tucked up on my favorite cushy green chair with my new puppy Luna curled cozily in my lap. Bear and I have been looking for the perfect pup to keep me company on the farm, but until yesterday hadn’t found one who suited us just right. Now we’ve found her and couldn’t be happier.

Luna (named after the marvelous Luna Lovegood) is a tiny bit of a thing, brindled with gorgeous gold and chocolate markings. The vet thinks she is a Staffordshire/cow dog mix about six weeks old. She has a very sweet nature and is cuddly and smart as a whip. She’s already learned to obey “no”, “come” and “down”. Yep, I’m smitten.

Sheffield pup

It’s been a crazy week around here with all sorts of beloved friends visiting, goats disappearing and having to be tracked down, and other such adventures. Today I’m very happy to be home with all the animals exactly where they should be and Bear and Luna on the couch watching old movies with me.

Today is also Across the Cafe Table over at the Travel Belles!

Our topic of discussion this time around is: Foods We’ve Tried While Traveling: The Good, Bad and “Interesting”

When I first started traveling (age 17, Russia) I was a very picky eater, nervous about anything unfamiliar and living on potatoes.

Thankfully that changed. Now I embrace foreign foods whole-heartedly and love to sample new and strange dishes.

Such as the horse I tried in Slovenia at a splendid Old World pub with my brother Ryan and dear friends Natalie, Stacey, and Ben. It was actually really good, slow-cooked until it was fork-tender and served with dumplings and a rolled pasta stuffed with cheese. We washed it down with a stout local beer called Sokol.

Eating horse in Slovenia

I was pleasantly surprised by ribbons of thinly sliced lard drizzled with local honey at the Ristorante Corte Visconti way out in the swamps of Lombardy, Italy. It may sound vile but somehow the salty, wafer-thin fat dissolved on the tongue and mingled with the sweet honey until it melded into pure deliciousness.

lard with honey

How about you? What are some strangely delicious things you’ve tasted?

For more inspiring (or scary!) ideas, pop over to the Travel Belles and see what other adventurers have eaten on their travels.

Our Lord in the Attic in Amsterdam, Part One

Our Lord in the Attic in Amsterdam, Part One

Our Lord in the Attic. The first time I heard the name of this tiny 17th Century Catholic church in Amsterdam, I loved it and knew I simply had to visit.

Although it was wicked cold on the day I chose, I bundled up against the bone-chilling wind and headed out to find Our Lord in the Attic (Ons Lieve Heer op Solder).

My camera had died a sudden and painful death, so I relied on my trusty phone to capture the day for me.

Amsterdam in black and white

Armed only with a shoddy map whose creator seemed to have felt it unnecessary to be either detailed or accurate, I soon found myself very, very lost. But on such a glorious day I didn’t mind so much, for there were so many interesting things to see.

When the sun comes out in Amsterdam so do the people. Each square and cafe was filled to bursting with students and artists and tourists, soaking up every last precious ray.

As I wandered one canal after another wondering where on earth I was, I’d stumble upon marvelous sights, like the exquisitely detailed rooftops of this unknown church.

Dutch church in black and white

I joined complete strangers for a rest on an obliging bench, listening to them chatter in Dutch, comparing their sketches of monuments and buildings.

I wandered past workmen scaling scaffolding, Turkish men talking animatedly on the cobbled street, and a Dutch fellow working steadily on his houseboat.

I confess I was feeling a tad bit nervous as I discovered I had wandered straight into the middle of the Red Light District which, at that moment, was filled with the sort of leering, creepy chaps that scare the liver out of me. Yipes! But I wasn’t going to let a few brash fellows frighten me, so I lifted my chin, shouldered past them and pressed on.

I had nearly given up hope of ever finding Our Lord in the Attic when suddenly I looked up and there was the banner, flapping in the icy wind. Phew.

Dutch canal bridge

Apart from the banner, there is nothing to suggest that the building is anything more than a traditional canal house, and that’s just the way businessman Jan Hartman wanted it 350 years ago.

I climbed the steps and entered the museum, grateful to be out of the biting winds. I paid for my 8 Euro ticket (about $10.50 US or $10.22 AUD) and was given a handheld gadget that played recorded histories of the various rooms I would visit.

I was the only one there for much of my tour, an unheard of luxury in big city museums. I loved it.

The history of Our Lord in the Attic is absolutely fascinating to me.

Amsterdam Attic Church

During the Dutch Golden Age (16th-17th centuries) Protestant Amsterdam prevented Catholics from openly practicing their religion. After the transfer of power in Amsterdam to Protestants in 1578, an official prohibition on the celebration of the Catholic mass was issued.

Instead of abandoning their faith, Amsterdam’s Catholics went underground.

In 1661 wealthy merchant and Catholic Jan Hartman (1619-1668) bought the Velvet Burgwal, a prestigious property on Oudezijds Voorburgwal. With his son training for the priesthood, Hartman wanted a place where Catholics could worship in safety. The Velvet Burgwal provided the perfect place to build a secret church.

Comprised of three buildings, one in front and two behind, the Velvet Burgwal’s main floors functioned as a lavish reception room, shop, and storage area. The third floor of the front house formed a single extended attic with the top floors of the two back houses.

For over two hundred years Hartman’s attic served as the parish church for Amsterdam’s city center. While city father’s knew about the “secret” church, their policy of tolerance and Hartman’s wealth and influence secured him freedom of worship as long as he didn’t flaunt it.

Originally known as the Hart church (hart means stag), the space was renamed in the 19th century when the priest Ludovicus Reiniers bought the house. During his renovation, the stag that surmounted the facade disappeared, and the church became known as Our Lord in the Attic.

Museum Ons' Lieve Heer op Solder

Climbing the steep, narrow staircases up into the heart of the Velvet Burgwal, I could imagine the tramp of many feet as Dutch Catholic parishioners darted in from the street and began the laborious climb into the attic.

I loved the cupboard bed in the corner and the old stove across the room. It’s so cold and damp in Amsterdam in winter that it must’ve been wonderful to crawl in bed at night and pull the curtains shut to seal in precious warmth.

I dipped my hand in the ancient font still affixed to the wall, wondering how many people had performed this ritual over the centuries.

I looked out the tiny windows to the homes across the canal, and pondered what the Golden Age residents thought of the goings on at the Velvet Burgwal.

Our Lord in the Attic interior

After another few steep sets of creaky wooden steps I emerged into the sanctuary of Our Lord in the Attic.

Late afternoon sun streamed through the windows, light dancing off glossy wood surfaces and brass fixtures. I liked the old black and white photo of a church service in progress. It made the empty space come alive again.

Our Lord in the Attic serviceIt was strange to come from the plain, simple rooms below into the opulence of this hidden church, but I liked the peaceful feeling it gave. The silence and glorious warmth brought by the sun.

Our Lord in the Attic sanctuary

Our Lord in the Attic is currently undergoing a massive renovation. Plans include restoring the neighboring building and providing an underground passage to Hartman’s historical house.

Because of this, most of the facility has been gutted, with all decorations and exhibits removed. While this could be disappointing, I found it quite wonderful. It felt so much more personal with only the walls, floors and windows as they were hundreds and hundreds of years ago. My imagination ran riot, thinking of what I would do in this place if it were mine.

Next time I’ll take you into the quiet rooms of the Velvet Burgwal, where soft light and simple lines created a place of peace and refuge in the 17th century.

What is the most interesting church you’ve ever visited?

Travel Information for Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder (Our Lord in the Attic)
Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40
1012 GE Amsterdam
T +31(0)20 624 66 04
F +31(0)20 638 18 22
info@opsolder.nl
www.opsolder.nl
Hours:
Monday to Saturday 10.00 – 17.00
Sundays and public holidays 13.00 – 17.00
The museum is closed on 1 January and 30 April
Tickets:
Adults: € 8,00
Children from 6 through 18 years: € 4,00
Children from 0 through 5 years: free
Museumjaarkaart/ICOM/Stadspas/XXXS-pas: free
I amsterdam City Card: free

Bringing Sunny Italy to Rainy Amsterdam through Pasta

Bringing Sunny Italy to Rainy Amsterdam through Pasta

It poured my last day in Amsterdam. A heavy, drenching rain that signified summer was well and truly over.

I huddled in my brother’s living room, swathed in blankets and looking out over the canals, pondering what to have for lunch on such a stormy, really-don’t-want-to-go-outside day.

rainy Amsterdam canal

My thoughts drifted to a sun-drenched country house outside Bologna, Italy.

porch on an Italian villa

I had been there only two days before staying with my dear friend Maddalena and her family. To say that she spoiled me rotten would be putting it mildly: authentic Italian food for every. single. meal. Amazing.

I absolutely loved sitting on the veranda with these people who had opened their home to me and made me feel so welcome.

Bologna farm food

I peppered Maddalena with questions about Bolognese Italian cooking. I loved learning how to make real Italian minestrone soup and thoroughly enjoyed  real Italian breakfasts complete with pastry and espresso.

I was intrigued to note that nearly every pasta dish I tasted had olive oil as the only sauce. What a revelation! No marinara, no alfredo, no meatballs, just pasta cooked perfectly and tossed with top quality ingredients and numerous glugs of fruity olive oil.

I have two favorite pasta dishes from my time in Bologna, and today I’ll share the one I make most. It is simple as can be and ranks as pure comfort food in my books. The perfect thing to have on a rainy day in Amsterdam.

Put pasta on to boil and while it’s cooking add the following ingredients to a frying pan: tuna packed in olive oil (drained), capers (drained), good quality olives (I like dried black Spanish or Kalamata), and olive oil. Heat through then add to hot, drained pasta. Toss until well mixed, adding enough oil to make pasta glossy but not soupy.

Then curl up on the couch with a steaming bowl of pasta, glass of wine, and a great movie.

pasta with tuna capers and olives

What is your favorite pasta dish?

Maddalena’s Pasta with Tuna, Capers and Olives

Ingredients:

8 ounce package of pasta (shells, penne, or spirals work well)
1 can tuna packed in olive oil, drained
1/4-1/2 cup capers, drained
1/4-1/2 cup olives (dried Spanish or Kalamatas are great)
olive oil

Directions:

  1. Cook pasta according to package directions.
  2. In frying pan heat 2-3 Tbsp olive oil. Add tuna, capers and olives. Cook until heated through, stirring often.
  3. Drain cooked pasta and toss with tuna mixture. Add 2-3 Tbsp olive and mix until well incorporated. Serve hot.